![]() Notches from testing the solidity of the shaped metal.You’ll generally come across four types of markings on most antique anvils. The markings on an anvil will tell you its history if you know how to read it. Good Luck! What Do the Markings on an Anvil Mean? To me at least, that's a good sign that the manufacturer used the hundredweight system of measurement, especially since actual weight is so close to stated weight. Look even closer, and it looks like dash lines between the numbers. If you look closely on your anvil, you'll see the numbers are spaced far apart. You're within less than 1% of advertised weight that's very good! Some anvils could have come with additional features like an upsetting block, yet could possibly have been listed as weighing the same as an otherwise identical anvil without one. An example would be the chain hole you see in the waist on some anvils, but an otherwise identical anvil from the same manufacturer doesn't have it. Some manufacturers even changed methods of processing for the same anvil, yet the weight is still listed the same as the "older model". Patterns wear, thus changing dimension and affecting the weight of the casting.įor those familiar with casting, variables such as metal content and pouring temps can significantly impact the final weight.įor that matter, other little factors come into play, such as addition or changing sizes of hardy hole, pritchel hole, etc. Using the example of stating weight based upon a previous pattern, if the anvil was constructed of a casting with a steel plate welded to the top (most popular method), several things in the casting process alone could throw the weight off from what was originally intended. While much of this is insignificant, remember that there are many things that may impact the ultimate final weight, which is why we have the "10% window".ĭid the manufacturer list the weight based on a previous known pattern, or did they actually weigh the final product and then mark it? e.g., One persons scales reads 170#, while another reads 167# while measuring the same object. Methods of measurement could vary, and the makers may not have been subject to a system of standardized measurements. Yeah, I know, that was more information than you asked for.ĭon't forget that Wayne stated that it was acceptable for the weight to be off up to 10% either way.īack when a lot of these old anvils were made, there were not as many restrictions on manufacturing processes, meaning if the maker advertised a product, regulation of that product (if any) was on the "loose" side. I see that you have it next to a scale so I assume that you verified the calculations. The second number (2) = 28 X 2 or 56 pounds (28 is a quarter of 112 or a quarter hundred weight)Īdd each together to get the weight of the anvil (it was acceptable for the weight to be 10 percent over or under) A hundred weight is not one hundred pounds, it is one hundred twelve pounds. The numbers on the side are the weight in Hundred weights. The cuts on the side and on the feet are from a blacksmith making tools or sharpening them and testing the edge. Use it! You can not streighten something out on a flat surface. Don't worry about getting the edges sharp, I like to have a radius from about 3/8" near the horn and gradually progressing down to sharp, with both sides matching (as much as possible).ĭon't worry about getting the swag out. ![]()
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